Konya is a city often defined by the whirling spirituality of Mevlana Rumi. Yet, to truly understand its soul, a visitor must look deeper, back to the era when Konya was the dazzling capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rûm (roughly 1077–1307). This was the period that laid the foundation for Turkish Anatolian culture, leaving behind a collection of architectural masterpieces that are unlike anything else in the world.
For the history and architecture enthusiast, Konya is not just a detour; it is the essential centerpiece of your Turkish journey.
A City Built on a Hill: The Alaeddin Mosque
Your Seljuk immersion begins at the highest point in the city center: Alaeddin Hill (Alaeddin Tepesi). Atop this ancient mound stands the Alaeddin Mosque (Alaeddin Camii), the oldest and most significant Seljuk-era religious structure in Konya.
Unlike the ornate, centrally-domed mosques of the later Ottoman Empire, the Alaeddin Mosque showcases the distinct, early Seljuk style:
- The Hall of Columns: Step inside and notice the vast, hypostyle hall supported by a forest of ancient columns. These were often repurposed from Roman and Byzantine structures, a practice that reflects the Seljuks’ pragmatism and respect for the past.
- The Sultans’ Tombs: Adjacent to the mosque, you’ll find the resting place of several Seljuk Sultans. This mausoleum complex, though humble in appearance, marks the dynasty’s power center and spiritual heart.
- A Ruined Palace: On the hillside, you can glimpse the remains of the Kılıçarslan Palace, once the royal residence of the sultans, offering a rare look at the political nerve center of the empire.
Masterpieces of Stone and Tile: The Madrasas
The Seljuks were great patrons of learning, building magnificent madrasas (theological schools) that now serve as spectacular museums, showcasing the height of Seljuk artistry.
1. İnce Minareli Madrasa (Madrasa with the Slender Minaret)
This building is arguably the most dramatic visual piece of Seljuk stonemasonry. While the minaret itself was unfortunately damaged, the name lives on.
- The Crown Portal: You will be stunned by the entrance gate, a complex tapestry of stone carving. Its facade is covered from floor to ceiling with intricate Kufic calligraphy, geometric patterns, and floral motifs. The sheer level of detail is a testament to the skill of 13th-century artisans. Today, it houses a museum of stone and wooden artifacts.
2. Karatay Madrasa (The Tile Museum)
Just across the street from Alaeddin Hill, the Karatay Madrasa, built in 1251, offers a journey into the Seljuks’ mastery of ceramics.
- The Starry Dome: Step inside the main hall and look up. The dome is covered with exquisite turquoise, brown, and dark blue tiles arranged in dazzling geometric patterns. This tilework, once used to adorn palaces like Kubadabad on Lake Beyşehir, symbolizes the cosmic vision of the Seljuks and reflects the beauty of their Islamic art. The building now functions as the Karatay Tile Museum, a must-see for anyone interested in decorative arts.
Why the Seljuks Matter
The Seljuk era in Konya was a golden age that fostered commerce, scholarship, and Sufi mysticism (under Rumi). They established a sophisticated infrastructure, including caravanserais (roadside inns) like the famous Sultan Han near Konya, which supported the Silk Road trade.
When you walk through the monumental gates and halls of these Seljuk sites, you are touching the original foundation of Turkish culture in Anatolia—a blend of Persian, Byzantine, and Central Asian influences, all refined and elevated by a powerful Turkish empire.
Your Konya experience is incomplete without honoring both its famous mystic and the glorious empire that gave his message a home. Visit these sites and let the silence of the ancient stones tell you the true history of this magnificent central Anatolian capital.